Buenos Aires- dest 3

Everywhere I read people said it’s the best city in South America and then I meet travellers who’d been there and said it wasn’t that great, so I was obviously apprehensive about this city. I mean I can’t wait to go to the mountains and lakes but I was curious about the city. 

The very first experience well was great and anxious. I was proud I figured out how to get to my Airbnb from the port by public transport. It’s so easy in BA cause they have their own card as well called Sube which you can get at any kiosco. So an hour later I successfully managed to make it to my spot only to realise that I had actually booked my place for March and not Feb!  

Well I guess it’s bound to happen, my would be host was lovely, she allowed me to use her wifi to figure out another spot. And so the first thing on the trip where it didn’t go as planned. But I found a bed and things were fine.

Now to experience the city. I was lucky that I knew some locals here from my company’s office that I worked with and who were so kind to take me out. They were perfect hosts, helped me in every way. We had some nice drinks at the office balcony, then I headed to one of their place for food and wine and in true Latin style we only left her house at midnight to go see some tango! 

I was so looking forward to it. The place was great. A not so underground underground spot. The decor was perfect and everyone was dancing. We sat at a table and within 10 mins we had someone come over and ask us for a spin. I barely spoke Spanish and can really only do salsa so this guy had no idea what was coming but it was great. He was super patient and took me around for two songs. Such a great night.  

The next morning of course was spent in bed after a 3am night. And so I headed into Palermo Soho, completely hipster and cool and you really do feel like you could be in London or New York. Some great brunch and  I walked the streets and then went back to my friend’s apartment as she kindly let me use her laundry machine. Now this was where I had my first maté in Argentina. You can see the reactions below. It’s pretty strong but a bit of sugar and I was getting into it. 

While we were waiting on the roof, one of her neighbours came up to prepare the Asado and was super sweet to invite us to their evening party where they were making caipiriñas. They were Brazilian. We accepted and joined them with some drinks. It was great! The best part of travelling where you meet so many people. Theirs friends were Colombian , American and Argentinian. From there I ended up at a very random small community centre where we saw some great African music performances. A perfect random great fun night!

Last day in town was then meant to be more touristy. I booked a great Airbnb bike experience with my original host Luana and bright and early on a Sunday morning we began at 9:30am. The tour was perfect. She takes you to very local spots around the north in Palermo, the memorial park, the university and back through the rich barrio. We also have a great maté experience where I find out that the one who prepares the maté is always the first to drink it. You have to drink the whole pot then refil it with water and pass it around the group. And this time round with a bit of sugar I loved it and now I want some every day! 

Palermo soho graffiti

Palermo soho

Palermo soho

Memorial park win names of everyone that was killed during the dictatorship

The super fancy European looking private fishing club

Luana our host with our maté and breakfast

After a much deserved cerveca I headed over to Recoleta district to see the cemetery and then make my way to San Telmo’s Sunday market and had some delicious empanadas. The last evening  was to relax and prepare for the flight finally to Patagonia!!

All in all I could see both sides, people wanting to visit and see really Latin American places being disappointed but on the other hand I was super impressed at how advanced the city was. It’s subway and with a card, even Paris still has paper, the streets were clean and their food and cafe culture was like Europe. Plus I think knowing a local made all the difference. For me Buenos Aires was a big yes but maybe not as your first port of call on your backpacking holiday if you’re looking for something more Latin.  

Recoleta cemetery

San Telmo Sunday markets