Patagonia - El Calafate I - dest 4

It’s been years since I’ve been following photographers that travel Patagonia and post their photos that are simply divine. The landscape the ruggedness and the immense open spaces, all really grasped my imagination and I couldn’t wait to make it there. I think living in Australia really made me appreciate the great outdoors and how much beauty lay around our lovely planet. After spending the last 3 years mainly doing city breaks around Europe (which is absolutely great as well) I was totally ready for something completely different.

My excitement got to another level as I opened ‘In Patagonia’ on my flight over to El Calafate. Chatwin’s first few chapters already talk about the vast nothingness and that’s all I could see for the first half hour of my flight, miles and miles of flat deserted land as we cross through East Patagonia.

The airport in El Calafate is a bit of a surprise as I was expecting to see the cordilleras but really its flat land next to a laguna. No Andes in sight.

Taking the shuttle bus to the centre of town I was amazed at how small it actually was. I had heard but it’s great. There are dirt roads running through the town. Lots of construction going on so it’s only going to get bigger. Part of me wishes I came 10 years ago and then it might have been like how I experienced Georgia. But omg I’m here! Finally in Patagonia and already it’s everything I hoped it would be so it can only get better!!

The America del Sur hostel was a perfect location, bit out of town on a hill with a stunning view of the laguna and cordilleras and of course we manage to get a beautiful sunset. After dinner I went back out on their huge patio with my cervesa and 10 mins later I was joined by another, probably expecting to be alone as well. Anyhow, we got to talking and to my surprise, he wasn’t a fellow backpacker. He was a local born and bred in El Calafate. That was such a pleasant surprise and so after a few questions I learnt he works on a horse ranch. Now... I had been thinking about this since the stay at the ranch in Uruguay and having just read more about the horses and how the children of Patagonia really learn to ride before they can walk, I got thinking again. I mean if I wanted to then what better place than in Patagonia. So by the end of the night I confirmed with Zelmar that I would do it tomorrow as I had no plans till my bus to Puerto Natales.

Horse riding was epic. The ranch Rio Mitre is located on the road to the glacier so a good 43 kms outside of town on the other side of the laguna. But what I didn’t know was that it was right on the lake. I mean what a view to go horse ridding in. I truely felt like I was having a local experience.

Before we headed to the horses the guys prepared the asado so that the meat would be ready by the time I was done. This was the first time I saw a proper asado with the iron cross. After a cup of maté we headed down to saddle the horses. Watching my guide Martin do this was great (I have a secret thing for ranch tv shows and have been following one from Canada, yes yes I know) brilliant to watch in person. Him taking control of the horse and then slowly getting his permission to saddle him.

I am scared of horses for various reasons, mainly they are huge and so unpredictable. But he assured me the mare I was on was calm and would go slowly. No helmet on and with my normal shoes I was on her and ready to ride. The view probably distracted from my fear and it was simply spectacular. After a good 45 mins he asked if I wanted to trot a bit and so I said yes. This I was scared about but it was great. We paused again and then the next time I asked to go faster myself because as he said, the horse needs to know who the master is and that’s not in a whipping them way, they simply need to know you’re in control or they will go off. A wonderful experience of getting over my fear too.

We also had some interesting conversations as his English was great. He is originally from Buenos Aires and came to this farm as they are family friends and so learnt at a vey young age to horse ride and ever since has been coming for every summer season to work as a ranch hand.

‘Nature is my God’ is a line in Chatwin’s book that I remember distinctly and Martin confirmed it during one of our conversations. He asked me if my marriage was fixed already. Apparently even in the remotest parts of the world the knowledge that Indians fix their marriages as he put it, is known of. My saying no did bring a sort of relief more than anything as he shared his opinions about that tradition which weren’t very dissimilar to mine. This then led to religion and when I confirmed I don’t follow one but was born Hindu. He reciprocated by saying nature is his god no matter what he is born, isn’t that just beautiful. She sure has a mind of her own especially here in Patagonia so everything and one else is nothing compared with Mother Nature.

Returning back after a great two hour ride I didn’t realise I was starving until I smelled the asado. And just like that I’m in heaven. I feel so lucky I could cry right now. It’s the most wonderful feeling being here, I’m completely overwhelmed sitting at my lunch table with some of the best home cooked meat, simple yet fresh tomato and avocado salad with a delicious glass of red Malbec and this stunning stunning view. What more could I ask for. One day in and I know I’m coming back to Patagonia!

If you’re in El Calafate and have time I highly recommend Rio Mitre or simply ask your hostel for Zelmar Echeverria, the owners son.